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Day 5
Our final day began with us waking at 6am to catch a mini-bus with about ten other people at the hostel. You see, for the price of about 15 dollars, they'd take us to the wall, and back again. That's a good price considering Mutianyu was over an hour away. We drove through the city and out into the countryside. After living in Japan for so long, I felt that everything in China was so spread out in comparison. I was exhausted though so the trip passed in a bit of a haze. Once we got there, we had to hang around for a half hour or so (a blatant attempt to get us to buy souvenirs and food from the shop there) before the wall officially opened up and we were allowed to head up. We all chose to hike the path up to the wall rather than take the gondola, and I quickly learnt that all the walking from the previous days was catching up on me. Eventually we made it to the actual wall. Only a few people were ahead of us and they'd largely disappeared so we had the place to ourselves. We got lots of pictures of the wall without people on it, so my only regret is that it was so smoggy. We had a lot of fun taking pics while standing on the top walls of a guard tower (Sauron-chan climbed as well.) I was surprised to see how small the cannons were. Entertaining to watch was also the poor martial arts group who were forced by their teacher to run all the way up the wall then down again.

The thing you quickly noticed was that the wall was insanely steep with steps of varying length, width and height to break up the monotony and give your knees and legs a really good work out. Unfortunately, I had smashed up one of my knee ligaments quite badly about five months before, and while I thought it had healed enough to bear the trip, the steepness (and the several kilometres we climbed) caught up with me. I had already been close to limping before Nish suggested we climb up the right side of the wall right to the end, but gamely decided to give it a go. I regretted it when I realized I was nearly climbing vertically at times to get up those steps. See? Here we are at the top. My grin is because I'm allowed to rest. The view of the further off, unrepaired sections of the wall was probably worth seeing at least. I walked very slowly down those steep steps, feeling the agony growing with each movement but thinking I could make it down. Unfortunately, by the time we reached the middle of the wall, my knees actually gave out on me and it took me ten minutes to climb down only one short flight of steps since my knees were trembling so badly and would give out every once and awhile. I told Nish there was no way I'd make it down to the parking lot on foot, so we decided to take the toboggan which wound down the side of the steep hill. It was awesome, if horribly historically inaccurate (the archaeologist inside me disapproves, the ten year old thinks it was ace). We avoided the pushy sellers and people dressed as Mongols at the bottom of the hill. We finally got home and the long bus ride, plus an hour's rest at the hostel allowed my legs to recharge enough to survive a short walk to the shopping area where we picked up last minute gifts (I was down to my last ten dollars, which stretches pretty far in China, but still). Then we caught a taxi to the airport and headed back to Japan. I don't remember much of the flight only being exhausted, happy to see Fukuoka airport, but annoyed that there was still a long train ride for us to get home. We made it though, and you can check the day 1 report to see the results. Ja ne!
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Read Day 1
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Day 4
Our morning began with a long, expensive taxi ride to the Summer Palace which took us by the, then being built, Olympic stadium. The Summer Palace is a misnomer, of course, and actually is a giant park filled with temples, palaces, houses, stone boats, and natural beauty. This is a view out over one side of the main lake. (A close up on the buildings). It was also my birthday, as the park's weather forecast notes. A lot of people were at the palace enjoying the good weather. They carried supplies for picnics with giant bottles of sun tea slowly brewing at their sides. Everyone bunched up into crowds at all the famous places, and it quickly became clear that you'd need another day or two to see the whole place, so we picked a few things that looked interesting and gave them a go. First was entry into the dowager empress' summer house, where there was another massive opera stage. They put on a show of dancing and music using a few, long stringed instruments and oddly shaped bells (which can be seen behind the dancers). There was a (mostly boring) museum display inside of glassware and a few of the dowager empress' things, but we did have fun being extremely cheesy and dressing up as the empress to get our pictures taken.

Outside, we joined the crowds again, exploring random buildings and their pretty, if familiar decoration. This is the entrance to the longest covered walkway (in China? in the world? no idea). It was insanely crowded and we only made it several meters before we forced our way out of the crowd again and decided to climb the big hill towards the temples. I was getting a lot of looks btw because I'd decided to take advantage of not being in Japan to wear a tank top to combat the heat. Once we reached the top, we went inside the green and yellow temple at the top of the hill to see the Buddha (and cause it was cool temperature wise). Then we took some pics from above looking down on the tower of incense (which did have incense in it, we checked). From the tower, you could look down on the temple complex and the lake. Going down was much easier than going up and we soon found ourselves looking up at the tower instead, and enjoying the temple's beautiful courtyard. That was it for us and the Summer Palace.

Rather than have the taxi driver take us to the hostel, we had him go straight to the Pearl market, said to be a good place for cheap electronics and jewellery on the upper floors. We stuck to the lower ones. I bought a cheap mp3 player for ten dollars, and then went into hard bargaining for some of the more intricate silk robes in one of their shops. They were more expensive than Xi'an, but the fact that I bought three silk robes and that it was my birthday (that got me a set of silk purses thrown in) meant I still got an amazing deal, and supplied silk robes for my whole family (except for my dad who got a watch that projected the time and date with a laser on the wall). I half heartedly bargained for silk shoes (somehow getting an extra pair for free), then was talked into some pretty hair clips which they had to teach me to put in. Nish made some amazing deals as well, probably because we'd both noticed that the less you wanted something, the more likely you were to get it cheaply. Our taxi driver stiffed us on the way back, but oh well. We were dropped off in the main shopping area, and wandered around the mall, visiting an expensive tea shop, and noting that it was generally like every mall you ever visit. We ate this in the food court there (I'm not really sure what it is since we ordered by pointing). It was surprisingly spicy, but not bad. Of course, I'm fairly sure it's to blame for my food poisoning/illness once I got back to Japan, but oh well. We went to sleep early since we planned on accompanying a small group from our hostel heading to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall in the early morning.
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Day 3
This was our view of Xi'an in the morning from our hotel room. We joined all the Japanese tourists at the buffet breakfast (good bread products and condiments and cheese, awful hot food), before checking out. Since we wanted to understand Xi'an more and it was pretty early, we decided to walk through the local neighbourhoods until we hit the drum tower and marketplace. This wasn't a mistake, but it was obvious we weren't in the richest parts of the city. I had to talk Nish out of buying a hammock (how would we have gotten it home?), while we searched for the Great Mosque which was supposed to be in the area. Instead, we ended up at a Buddhist temple that was being refurbished and did our first haggling for some jade in a nearby series of shops. From there, we made our way to the Drum tower (which, yes, has drums in it). We circled around it, hitting a cheap dvd shop which kept a puppy in a box in it (this was often the case, it seems). Then we came to the actual market place and it was just amazing. We haggled for silk robes and souvenirs. I was very pleased to pick up a gorgeous jade stamp from the last century (which even if it was a fake, was still worth the money). I had a lot of fun just haggling and taking pictures of the amazing displays of merchandise. Everything was super cheap (I got silk robes for $12) and it was just interesting to wander. We'd have stayed there all day, but eventually decided it was time to head out to Emperor Qin's tomb to see the terracotta soldiers.

The tomb is pretty far outside the city (but closer to the airport), and even reading about it never gave me the sense of scale that seeing the main pit, gave me. (A close up). We walked around the pit, taking more pics and noting the place where they were slowly piecing together more of the figures. Next up was Pit 3 with its war chariot, and high ranking officers in situ. Pit 2 was very dark, so although you could see the outlines of chariot wheels and whole pits of archers, it was very hard to photograph. I enjoyed seeing the various stages of excavation in regards to removing the collapsed roofing material of the tomb (it can be seen as rows of long humps in the main pit photo). Another building had individual finds like this amazing, mini war chariot.

Having seen the whole thing, we headed to the airport, where we grabbed a meal, then waited patiently for the (of course) delayed plane back to Beijing to take off. Once again, we arrived late in the evening at Beijing, though this time we knew enough of how to take the bus and how to walk to the hostel ourselves. It was the same one as before, so I didn't anticipate any problem, and walked in weary from our long walk and long day, but anticipating a nice evening only to discover that they'd given away our reservation and there were no cheap rooms free. I pulled out one of my copies of said reservation (annoyed that I hadn't thought to print out another copy of the actual email) and went to town in proper silent and scary way. The clerk took to hiding behind the counter as much as possible while he made phone calls and sorted things out to eventually say, "Well, yes, you did have a reservation, but we gave it away. Sorry." I then suggested very politely that they discount one of their more expensive rooms so we could spend the night since they had inconvenienced us. We'd move to the cheaper rooms when a bed became free in the morning. After some haggling (and I suspect he was telling his supervisor I was going to kill him if they didn't offer the deal), we were handed the keys of the more expensive room (which was sort of like a cheap version of a hotel room with two beds and an open shower head in the bathroom) for a lower price. We enjoyed the privacy for the evening though Nish said she never wanted me as an enemy.
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It's come to my attention, that I never posted a travelogue of my full trip to China. So here it is, with lots of pics to admire and a lot of time spent rushing about.

Read Day 1

Day 2
We woke up early on our second day, beating most of the inhabitants of the hostel to breakfast which was some toast and tea for me. The hostel had a nice atmosphere with circular screens and airy furniture - it was a pity they couldn't handle money or reservations very well. (I became addicted to the 50 cents sweet iced tea they had in their fridge.) Since we had very little time for this trip (five days in total) I'd packed our schedule with visiting all the important places you have to see while in Beijing and Xi'an. Nish, for some crazy reason, mostly went along with this;) So, we had the morning and some of the afternoon to visit the Forbidden City, eat lunch, then catch a taxi to the airport to fly to Xi'an (our bags consisted of one backpack each).

We walked to the Forbidden City (henceforth shortened to FC) since it was only several city blocks away (yes, this is why no one goes on holidays with me). If I had understood how big the city was (ie, it's actually a city), I probably would have got us a taxi, though it also probably wouldn't have made a difference in the long run. If you've walked several miles, what's one or two more? Walking gave us the opportunity to see the culture anyway as we passed through the back alley where our hostel was into main shopping roads which sort of reminded me of a very spread out Japanese rural town. The city areas with the shopping malls and districts looked no different from any other city excepting the really wide streets. We finally hit the edge of the FC which was a very pretty man made lake we meandered along until we hit one of the red outer walls. Once we rounded that, we found soldiers marching, and opposite them, one of the outer gates to the FC. The key to that sentence is 'one of' since we had to pass through a few more to get to the heart of the city. So at first, you take lots of pictures of the architecture and decoration, and then you realize that pretty much everything is decorated this way, and that the sun is very hot and while the yellow roof tiles are pretty, they're also reflecting the heat back at you... The inner areas of these gates have various 'shrines' set up with imperial objects which I was mostly able to see by holding my camera over my head and taking a picture of their dark depths over people's heads since they were invariably packed to the gills anywhere in front of them. This is us after exhaustedly pushing through them.

Anyway, the famous thing to see here is the dragon screen (those dragons, always chasing after pearls *snerk*). Opposite it were lions guarding the entry into the FC's garden (there might have been a museum in between), which was as extensive as you'd expect it to be. My favourite wall in the city was here, but amusingly, it was the outside wall of the women's restrooms. I should mention that often the ceilings were gorgeous throughout the city, but very few people ever looked up. More than the scenery, the garden thrilled us because we found a bookshop. I was insanely excited to find a three book edition of Journey to the West for about twenty five dollars (usually, it's much more expensive). Shipping to the US was very cheap (even if you had to wait a few months) so I bought that and a guide to Chinese tombs while Nish bought her own things and had them shipped to Japan.

Our next few hours were long corridors punctuated by visits to various museum like displays on the eastern side of the city (we never made it to the west). There was a display of Shang/Zhou bronzes that I spent far too much time in, and an unfinished pleasure palace (that was going to have aquarium walls!). We found the famous 9 dragon screen, which was justifiably so, though my favourite bit was the part about how the only damaged part of the screen was removed and replaced with wood (see it?). In yet another museum area was an opera house, jades and costumes plus my favourite door of the trip.

Exhausted, foot sore and pressed for time, we dazedly made our way out of the FC, dodging the efforts of a Chinese student to get us to see an art gallery to emerge (after far too many gates) in Tiananman Square. The guards didn't notice me taking this pic. We wandered to the left, wanting to find somewhere to eat. We found pretty canals, walkways, art galleries, and eventually, a place to eat. I chose eggplant with sour brown sauce, and it was amazing. I wish I could have gotten a recipe. After our meal, we walked quite a ways before spotting a taxi who took us to the airport (here's the toll gate). Once there, we discovered we were about an hour early, so Nish, in one of her most brilliant moves, dragged me upstairs and booked us in for a half hour foot massage with oolong tea to sip while doing so. It was a life saver after all the walking we'd done. They heated up our legs with hot towels and washed them before giving a very nice massage. (Also very cheap at about twenty dollars for the whole thing.) It was good we were relaxed since our flight was delayed leaving the airport and delayed even more getting into Xi'an, so our 'we'll arrive in Xi'an around 8pm plan' became 'we'll arrive around 11pm'. It was a long ride from the airport into the city, though they have awesome multicoloured lights on the side of their highways. Finally, we hit our hotel which was a 4 star monstrosity (booked in Japan for $30 a night *L*), and collapsed, planning to wake up early enough to grab breakfast, showers and enjoy our next day in Xi'an.
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deralte: (Default)
( Aug. 19th, 2007 10:19 am)
Woke up on Saturday with a sore throat I assumed was from having the air conditioning running all night (in a futile attempt to keep the temp comfortable enough for me to make up some of the sleep I lost in China). By midday, I noticed my snot was yellow/green and that I probably had a cold. By evening, I had a fever, which is rather bad considering I'm quite certain my thermometer is actually taking temperatures too low (the last time I had a slight fever, it didn't even register, so the fact that it did this time is rather worrying). Then I woke up this morning with diarrhoea.

Oh, China, you just keep on giving and giving.

This is on top of my period and lack of sleep from China. Gah. Supposed to pack today, but feel like shit so yeah...

Speaking of which, this seems the perfect time to chronicle the first day of our China trip. Our flight was overly long and involved a layover in a country I can't remember the name of where we went through Chinese customs with surprisingly little fanfare. We caught the airport shuttle bus in Beijing on the assumption that the hostel's directions were vaguely accurate. (Upon asking for directions in the airport, and telling the guy we were going to a hostel he said, "you're cute" and I have no idea whether I was cute, or the idea of going to a hostel was cute.) They forgot they had foreigners on the bus (so no English) so we just got off at the last stop and stared around worryingly, since there was supposed to be a the main Beijing train station somewhere and there just wasn't, not to mention everyone around us was panicking for some reason. We started walking and soon discovered why they were panicking as what I can only call a squall blew in. The rain was instantly soaking us, and we had to take shelter in a tiny little alleyway with many other people while the wind simply blew the rain right onto us. I spent a lot of time laughing with the Chinese people at the absurdity of it all. This was a perfect example of my bad travel luck too. We eventually decided to brave the rain since we were soaked anyway. Couldn't find the train station and ended up wandering in a giant circle through increasingly flooded streets. At one point, the water was deeper than my ankles and we were wading through it. I don't even want to think about how dirty the water was. A bitch of a woman tried to sell us an overpriced umbrellas too, but we refused even after she thrust them into our hands and made us open them.

Finally, we ran into a friendly Chinese woman who was helping out another set of foreigners. She got them on their way then bundled us in her taxi which was going towards our hostel anyway. We were dropped off opposite the right street, and she refused to take any money from us for her help (which was a first and last in China). At the hostel, we checked in (and were overcharged as far as I can remember), then spent most of the evening attempting to get our clothes and things dry. (You can't see it in this pic, but I'm dripping and soaked to the skin.) Everything from my clothing to passport to money were soaked so it took awhile and their dryer was crap so yeah. Had to stay up later than planned to get the clothes done (Nish got to sleep, sigh) and didn't get much sleep in the first place since I never sleep well at hostels (the slightest noise wakes me up). All in all a rather crappy first day.

Read Day 2
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Back from China. Alive, but very tired due to progressive lack of sleep (heaven forbid I get a full nights sleep on this trip) and kinda limping from climbing the Great Wall. Walked several kilometres each day, and lost weight judging by the way my trousers were falling off by the end there. Good food, okay accommodation, late airplanes, famous sites, mostly good weather, pollution, and haggling made up the rest of my trip. Will do a full post about it when I'm not micro-sleeping. Until then, have all the little observational notes I made while I travelled (not all these things happened to me, but I did notice them...).

Things I learnt in China )
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